Cheshire Dreams Striped Sweater Crochet Pattern

Have you always wanted a perfectly striped crochet sweater to cozy up in?

My original inspiration for this project was Aurora's comfy princess look from Wreck-it-Ralph 2: Ralph Breaks the Internet. I tried to use the same colors for the stripes as Aurora's nap queen PJs.

If you loved Wreck-it-Ralph 2 as much as I did, you might want to also check out my Sugar Rush Crochet Leg Warmers that I made! They're also striped. 

However, I can't help but notice the fact that the colors are so similar to the stripes on the Cheshire Cat from the original Disney's Alice in Wonderland (1951). Hence, the name "Cheshire Dreams".

Designing this sweater took a lot longer than I thought. I could have taken the easy route and made all the pieces separately and then sewed them up, but I was looking for a method that would give me the perfect stripes.

Also, I love the fact that raglan sweaters don't require much (if any) sewing. In fact, the sleeves are crocheted right from the armholes of the sweater itself.

Unfortunately, designing this raglan sweater was so much more challenging than I'd ever imagined. I can't even begin to count the number of times I've frogged this thing to start over again.

The crocheted Disney sweater is worked from the top down, and I wanted a similar boat neckline as the one Aurora is wearing and needed it to sit perfectly on the shoulders.

And then, of course, you can always make it your own. The collar is wide enough for you to wear it off the shoulder on one side!

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This crochet pattern is available for FREE on this website. If you'd like an ad-free, printable PDF version, you can purchase it for a small fee from my Ravelry shop.

What You Need / Materials

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• DK Worsted Weight Yarn in two colors (I used up a bunch of mills ends yarn that I bought last year and am not sure what brand they are, so gu-estimate approximately 1000 yards of fuchsia and 800 yards of pink)
• 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Stitch Markers
• Scissors

Notes

• Gauge: 10 cm x 10 cm (4" x 4") = 14 dc stitches x 8 rows
• This sweater is worked from the neckline down.
• The sleeves are crocheted right onto the sweater, so there's no sewing required
• I worked in the back bumps of the beginning chain, it just makes for a nicer finish.
• The great thing about raglan sweaters that are worked top-down is that you can try them on as you work on them!
• If you prefer your sweater to be longer/shorter, you can choose to do more/fewer rows
• I changed colors every 6 rows for the stripes, but you can alter this depending on how wide you want your stripes to be.
• For reference, I'm usually a size small, so when laid flat, my finished sweater measures 18" wide at the body and 24" long from shoulder to hips. The sleeves measure 22" long from the neckline to the wrist.
• Sizes in the crochet pattern will be in small, medium, large, and X-large in parenthesis. For example, S (M, L, XL). This is my first time writing multiple-size crochet patterns using some math based on the gauge. It may contain some errors as this crochet pattern has not been formally tested.
• For sizing information, please see Craft Yarn Council's women's size chart.

Stitches & Abbreviations

• st/sts - stitch/stitches
• ch - chain
• ch-sp - chain space
• slst - slip stitch
• dc - double crochet
• dc dec - double crochet decrease, double crochet 2 stitches together

Crochet Sweater Pattern

Ch 100 (108, 116, 124), slst to the first ch to make a loop (make sure your chain is not twisted)

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as st), 13 (14, 15, 16) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 22 (24, 26, 28) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 26 (28, 30, 32) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 22 (24, 26, 28) dc, [dc, ch, dc] into the next ch, 13 (14, 15, 16) dc, slst join (total of 104 (112, 120, 128) sts + 4 ch-sp)

Round 2: Ch 2, *dc in each st to the next ch-sp, [dc, ch, dc] into the ch-sp*, repeat x 4 times, dc in each st until the end of the round, slst join (total of 112 (120, 128, 136) sts + 4 ch-sp)

Round 3-12: Repeat round 2 (each round will contain 4 ch-sp and the number of sts will increase by 8 dc per round, so by round 12, you should have a total of 192 (200, 208, 216) sts + 4 ch-sp)

For M: Repeat round 2, (x1) (by round 13, you should have a total of 208 sts + 4 ch-sp)

For L: Repeat round 2, (x2) (by round 14, you should have a total of 224 sts + 4 ch-sp)

For XL: Repeat round 2, (x3) (by round 15, you should have a total of 240 sts + 4 ch-sp)

Shaping the armholes and then the rest of the body...

Round 1: Ch 2, *dc into each st until the next ch-sp, dc into the ch-sp, ch 10 (13, 16, 19), skip 46 (50, 54, 58) sts, dc into the next ch-sp*, repeat x 2, dc into each st, slst join (total of 104 (112, 120, 128) sts + 20 (26, 32, 38) ch)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc into each st around, slst join (total of 124 (138, 152, 166) sts)

Round 3-30: Repeat round 2 (total of 124 (138, 152, 166) sts in each round)

Sleeves

Round 1: Sc join the yarn to the rightmost chain under the arms (see top left photo), ch 1 (counts as 1 dc), 9 (12, 15, 18) dc, dc dec in the sts indicated in the photo below (this helps to minimize the size of the hole/gap), 44 (48, 52, 56) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 56 (63, 70, 77) sts)

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), 9 (12, 15, 18) dc, dc dec, 43 (47, 51, 55) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 54 (61, 68, 75) sts)

Round 3: Ch 2, 8 (11, 14, 17) dc, dc dec, 42 (46, 50, 54) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 52 (59, 66, 73) sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, 7 (10, 13, 16) dc, dc dec, 41 (45, 49, 53) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 50 (57, 64, 71) sts)

Round 5: Ch 2, 6 (9, 12, 15) dc, dc dec, 40 (44, 48, 52) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 48 (55, 62, 69) sts)

Round 6: Ch 2, 5 (8, 11, 14) dc, dc dec, 39 (43, 47, 51) dc, dc dec, slst join (total of 46 (53, 60, 67) sts)

Round 7-12: Ch 2, dc in each st around (total of 46 (53, 60, 67) sts)

Round 13: Ch 2, dc in each st until the last 2 sts, dc dec in the last 2 sts (total of 45 (52, 59, 66) sts)

Round 14-27: Repeat round 13 (total number of sts decreases by 1 per round)

Round 28-30: Ch 2, dc in each st around (total of 31 (38, 45, 52) sts)

Cut and fasten off, and weave in the ends.

Did you make your own Cheshire Dreams Crochet Sweater? I'd love to see it! Please share it with me on Instagram and/or use the #onceuponacheerio hashtag.

This is an original crochet pattern written by Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio. Please do not claim this crochet pattern as your own. If you wish to share this crochet pattern, you may link to this blog post but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for personal use but please DO NOT sell or distribute the crochet pattern.

You may sell products made from this crochet pattern, but please clearly credit the design to me, Juli Anne of Once Upon a Cheerio and provide a link to my blog www.OnceUponaCheerio.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for understanding!